Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Attabad Lake: Teardrop miracle

Popular myths surround the formation of several geographical landmarks in Pakistan. The lake at Katasraj, Choa Saidan Shah in Punjab, is said to have formed from the teardrop of Lord Shiva mourning the death of his wife Satti.
The Attabad Lake was formed following a massive landslide in 2010, which buried 20 people beneath it and blocked the flow of River Hunza, creating a natural dam. The water has displaced thousands of people and inundated over 19 kilometres of the Karakoram Highway. PHOTO Asmar Hussain

Ansoo lake in Kaghan is believed to have been created from tears of jealousy shed by Deuo Sufaid, the white giant, when he learnt that Badr Jamal, the fairy princess he was in love with, had chosen to marry Prince Saiful Mulook. Attabad Lake in Hunza, however, was born of less romantic circumstances. In January 2010, a massive landslide blocked the flow of River Hunza, creating a natural dam and burying 20 people beneath it. The rising water displaced thousands of residents and submerged countless villages, fields, orchards a well as a 19-kilometre stretch of the Karakoram Highway (KKH). In 2012, a spillway was created to release a steady flow of water and as the water receded, it revealed the villages that had been buried beneath. It is only now that people have started returning to rebuild their homes and lives.

The KKH is also being rebuilt. A new connection is being carved into the mountains around the lake. The highway begins in Abbotabad, runs through the mountain ranges of Gilgit-Baltistan, crossing over the Chinese border at Khunjerab and into China up to Kashgar. Reaching an elevation of 4,693 metres (15,397 ft), it is the highest paved international highway in the world. During its 20 years of construction, from 1959 to 1979, approximately 810 Pakistanis and 200 Chinese workers lost their lives mostly in landslides and falls.
Passenger boats ferry people, their belongings and even trucks from one side to the other, all through the day. Traffic is prohibited after dusk, and it becomes almost impossible to travel in winter when the lake freezes over

The reconstruction work is also being done by Chinese companies. Pakistani labourers work under the supervision of Chinese engineers in trying circumstances. The strong, howling gusts of wind often whip up dust, sand and tiny stones that sting the workers’ faces and eyes. They do not have a lot of protective gear other than scarves and sunglasses.

Until the connection is restored, the only way to reach the villages of Shishkat, Gulmit, Passu and places onward to the Chinese border is to cross the beautiful, blue lake by boat. Boats ferry people, their belongings and even cars from one side to the other, all through the day. Even the trucks coming from China, carrying material and equipment for the Karakoram Highway construction have to cross the lake on a barge.

Altit fort Hunza And Hunza river 

It’s easy to see how, once the road is functional, this place will become dotted with food points, restaurants and resorts. Tour guides will narrate the story of how the mountain fell and buried 20 people beneath it. Facts will become a story and the story will become a legend. The 20 people might become 20 suitors coming to win the hand of the princess of Gulmit, whose loud collective wail on finding out that she has already been betrothed, brought down the trembling mountains, while their tears flew into the crater and became a bottomless blue lake. If the tale takes a more contemporary twist, they might become 20 brave village women who encircle the mountain to stop evil corporations mining for the jewels beneath, who blast the mountain anyway and end up burying the women underneath.

Saturday, April 25, 2015


Today, there is skepticism whether any such place exists, but health scientists do scour the globe in search of medicinal remedies and other lifespan enhancements.

In fact, many “pockets” around the world have been identified as “Blue Zones,” where locals enjoy high quality of life and health in old age.

While failing to offer one “secret,” these regions share community factors such as diet, social integration, activity level, and outlook on life. While genetics plays a role in how long we live, researchers believe lifestyle factors account for 75% of our longevity.

 Hunza Valley, Pakistan

Surrounded by the Himalayas in Northeast Pakistan, the Hunza Valley was historically thought to be the mythical Shangri La. people live to 150 years old as claimed in the 1970s, but modern research supports that Hunza elderly boast enviable fitness levels. The diet is plant based, consisting mainly of wheat and barley and antioxidant fruits like cherries and plums. The rough terrain encourages high activity level among residents, leading to increased agility in old age. Residents are also known to have very positive outlooks on life and strong family ties.

Okinawa, Japan

Japanese rank high in lifespan studies, but Okinawans boast exceptional health. Inhabiting a tiny island in the East China Sea, locals have low rates of alzheimers, heart disease, and breast cancer, with 80% fewer cases of heart attacks and cancer than Americans.

The Okinawa diet has been studied intensely. Staples include fresh island fruits like pineapple and shikuwasa, bitter melon, sweet potato, seaweed, tofu, tea, green leafy vegetables, pork, and fish. Locals also follow the cultural tradition of hara hachi bu, or eating only until 80% full. The elderly are active, working on farms and exercising for leisure. Many live independent of nursing homes and daily connect with community.


Situated between Spain and France, this small principality of 84,000 people has one of the longest life expectancies in world. Residents enjoy good water, a top-notch health care system, and Mediterranean diet. It is believed that stress levels are low due to Andorra’s remarkable social stability. There has been no standing army there for 700 years, and the region currently boasts full employment. Seniors take full advantage of public leisure centers, enrolling in art lessons and recreation classes.

Ikaria, Greece

Today people living on Ikaria, a mountainous Greek isle in the Aegean, reach the age of 90 at 4 times the rate of the average American. Their fitness is attributed to their activity level and unhurried lifestyle. Naps are taken regularly as locals have a laid back concept of time. The diet is low in meat, fish, and sugar and high in whole grains, potatoes, and green vegetables. People also regularly consume goat milk and herbal teas over their lifetime.

Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica

For the 75,000 people who live in the Nicoya Peninsula, modern life closely resembles that of a century ago. Residents maintain solid relationships, eat a plant-based diet, and recognize active work as essential to quality of life. Many residents are sabaneros (cowboys who work on ranches) and small farmers. It’s not uncommon for food to be cooked on wood-burning stoves.

Locals eat a “Mesoamerican Trifecta” diet, consisting of corn tortillas, beans, and squash. The water supply is high in minerals that increase bone health. Because of the dry sunny climate, locals suffer from few respiratory diseases and get plenty of Vitamin D.


Friday, April 24, 2015

Mir Safdar Ali Khan

Mir Safdar Ali Khan as a poor man in exile in Kucha, Sinkiang. He fled to Sinkiang when the British invaded Hunza-Nagar. He was the Mir/Tham (ruler) of Hunza from 1886-1892, he was born in 1865 and died in 1930. Photograph taken by Col. Reginald Schomberg probably in 1928.
Courtesy of Robert Wright & Pitt Rivers Museum Oxford University.


Thursday, April 23, 2015

Education In Hunza valley

Those who are familiar with the difficult terrain and relatively scarce resources in Hunza would be pleasantly surprised to know that the literacy rate in Hunza is around 97 per cent. This must have been unthinkable when the first primary school was established there in 1913 by the British in India. The single-most important factor that transformed the educational scene in Hunza was the contribution of Aga Khan III, Sir Sultan Muhammad Shah, who convinced the then Mirs of Hunza state to place greater emphasis on education.
It was in 1946 that some 16 schools were established. They were called the Diamond Jubilee schools and they set the right momentum for bringing changes to education in Hunza.
Seen some where in Hunza


Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Foreign Office relaxes Pakistan travel advice

The Foreign Office has lifted advice against travelling to the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan, opening up some of the world’s most dramatic mountain scenery to Britons.

Rakaposhi in back ground photo by : Humans of Hunza
The region of northern Pakistan in which the Himalaya, Karakoram, Hindu Kush and Pamir mountain ranges meet had been deemed unsuitable for travellers since June 2013, when a group of climbers was killed at a remote base camp at the foot of Nanga Parbat mountain.
The lifting of the advice means that the area, renowned for some of the world’s best scenery, trekking and walking opportunities, will become more accessible to foreigners.
Visitors are drawn by superb opportunities for treks and walks, including the so-called “Throne Room of the Mountain Gods” at Concordia K2 basecamp, where the glacial floor is surrounded by seven of the world’s 25 highest peaks.
Attabad Lake Hunza 
Jonny Bealby, founder of adventure tour operator Wild Frontiers, said that the revised travel advice was “great news” for the area.
He added: “Gilgit-Baltistan is very close to my heart, as the beauty of the area and the hospitality of the local people inspired me to start Wild Frontiers, in order to allow others to discover this fantastic region.”

• Are we wrong about Pakistan?
As well as offering splendid scenery and numerous walking opportunities, Gilgit-Baltistan is famed as the setting for Shangri La, a fictional place described in James Hilton’s 1933 novel, Lost Horizon. The region offers memorable panoramas of some of the world’s best peaks, including K2, the world’s second highest mountain.

Karakorum High way which connects Pakistan and china 
The Hunza Valley, at 2,438 metres, is one of the highlights, blushing different hues throughout the year, as cherry blossom in the spring cedes to brilliant scarlet and yellow leaves in autumn.
Karimabad Hunza cherry blossom

The idiosyncratic Baltit wooden fort sits above the regional capital, Karimabad, while the valley’s fauna and flora are rich and varied, including the elusive snow leopard, impressively-horned Marco Polo sheep, and eagles. Crops include apricots, cherries and grapes, while visitors can look forward to food including “pizza” made from folded chapattis.

While a lack of roads meant the area was cut off from the rest of Pakistan and the world before the 1970s, the Karakoram Highway, the world’s highest paved road, now passes through the region, providing access to the border with China at Sust. Crossing the 22km lake at Attabad requires putting jeep transport on the back of a boat.

Jonny Bealby added that the introduction next month of five new aircraft manufactured by French-Italian aviation company ATR to Gilgit and Skardu airports would make access to the region “a lot more reliable in the future.”
Hotel facilities in Gilgit-Baltistan are limited, though the Eagle's Nest Hotel is well reputed.

view from Duikar Hunza photo by Jamal

Wild Frontiers offers two trips into Gilgit-Baltistan, including a 21-day itinerary that offers four days in the region. It ran the trip while the Foreign Office advised against travel to the area, after a brief suspension following the 2013 attack by the Pakistani Taliban at Nanga Parbat. Jonny Bealby said that the safety of clients was “paramount”, and Wild Frontiers decided to resume trips to northern Pakistan in 2014 following a thorough review of operations in the area using the company’s local contacts, finding that both departures passed without incident.
“We are delighted to see that the Foreign Office now agrees with our assessment of the situation and hope this will encourage others to start running trips to this most beautiful part of the world,” Jonny Bealby added.

Other companies have stopped trips into Pakistan in recent years, due to security concerns. The Mountain Company is not currently offering trips to Pakistan, while World Expeditions has a Pakistan section on its website but no tours currently on offer.
The Foreign Office still advises against “all but essential” travel to other parts of Pakistan, including the Kalesh Valley, the Bamoboret Valley and Arandu district to the south and west of the town of Chitral, and Quetta and Nawabshah further south. It advises against “all travel” to many other cities and districts, including Peshawar, the Federally Administered Tribal Areas, and northern and western Balochistan in the south of the country.
Approximately 270,000 Britons visit Pakistan every year, and the Foreign Office says that most trips are “trouble free”. Check the latest advice before planning a trip to Pakistan:

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Monday, April 20, 2015


Postuar më Qershor 17, 2013 nga albanopoli -albanology nën ERNEST KOLIQI, Kategoritë e Mendimit, Shoqeria

Where ripen Afghanistan, Pakistan, Tajikistan and China, there is spout Hundza. It`s over 2500 m above sea level and surrounded by mountains seven thousand meter high. Pone this mountain altitude produced entirely of vegetables, fruits and whole grains endryshëm, there are produced from potatoes, beans, wheat, barley, watermelon, grape, cherry, apple, pear, peach and apricot. Residents are field-makers (farmers) have created wonderful Nail its system of irrigation and drainage, drainage channels called KULLSE. (Classifieds drainage) mountain top covered with glaciers called RAKAPOSHI (K-fell kahposhtë) supplies the valley with drinking water. Qafirstani seen as paradise on earth in northeast Pakistan, with beautiful lakes, ujëvaremahnitise, green forests intact, permanent snow and sun gently. But nukështë only country that fascinates. But who are the kafir? Hundëzakët live about 100-140 years. Residents living in harmony and kanëshëndet good time without disease are known to live in that world. A mother gives son tëlindur breasts to three years, and only two girls. In no partitions spout married couples. They call themselves hundëzakë because they live in valleys between mountains eka shape of the nose. Languages spoken by them is BURRUSHASKI (slip-burrërrisht), which is not written language. Men wear SHALVARE (Albanian: shal-sledge), while their gratëbluzën KAMISHA call. Their dances accompanied by drums, flutes and dancers jump apopipëzat capture hand in hand around. On festive occasions burratveshin wool cape called Peaks. October is a celebration of wine (alcoholic beverages). Gratënuk are covered with veils or headscarves Holiday is the most important of the Solar New Year. This celebration is called Uros NA (Classifieds). In a single day of December marriages performed all year. Hundëzakët etregojnë generations how their history have remained there since the III century p. e. s.dhe that originate from the time of Alexander the Great. Aristides Kola arvanitas historian in his book, Arvanites “writes. . . Big Alexandria, Illyrian his mother had increased his army with soldiers chosen Illyrians. But the Kliti pasvrasjes by Alexander the Great, note that the period of about six thousand ushtarëilirë were separated from the latter and being separated positioned separately in Braktane up Qafirstanin SAU focused on today. . . Spout, because they live in the geographical part of the form of Nasal. So we have to address a host of Illyria (today about 50 thousand of them) which remain to ngakoha of Alexander the Great, from the time of the conquest of the Kingdom of Darius of Persia. The place was called Qafirstan ihundëzakëve because not accept Islamization. (Qafirstan-country unbelievers). Hundëzakët lived for thousands of years as early pagan shekullitXIX until Amir Abdur Rahman Khan of Kufr has converted to Islam. (1895-1896). After the conquest of the Emir of Kabul place was named Nuristan (Spot Light). Qafirstani ishtepushtuar often Emir and certainly before their identities were downgraded, “Priest” of them were killed, burned religious centers, youth were taken by force to the military, the harem kursevajzat Khan. What is also important to hundëzakët today’s meujë mixed drink wine, as our ancestors Illyrians. People are tall, with white skin and red sunken cheeks, most of them with blue eyes, green and gray, hair, brown to yellow, gjëqë distinguishes the Afghans or Pakistanis tagjikët. Many of them leshkuq. Qafirstanit woman, “the Hundëzës Kalash women with her beauty only makes mashkullinjo kalash also lose his religion.” “When a Kalash woman drinks water dukegjarpëruar seen water down her throat during the beautiful” These zakonshmeqë are descriptions of the beauty and tenderness become kafir women. They are believed to be more white than ebardha. “From her skin veins seen through her white body.” While living high in the mountains of the Kalash tribe characteristic. Fundittë Kalash are animists of Central Asia. As a small group of five thousand persons have a history unlike other ngahundëzakët. Over the centuries Qafirstani was divided into two areas-it’s tëzinj kafir today are the kafir Kalash and red, their descendants now live in Nuristan qëiu subject of jihad Emir of Kabul. “The black kafir” live their faith today Animist, which is believed to edhedruri soul. With thousands of years Kalash have survived and maintained their unique culture, social and linguistic identity, but the new century has faced two new tëfundamentalizmit religious confrontation and climate change. Hundëzës and hundëzakëve study is of great importance for Albanian culture, sepsekanë lived thousands of years apart from the circle and also are popular store features, and customary language Illyrian-Albanian. Where are we? Pakistani media first started shkrujnë for this group of people during the 70-takur Qafirstani faced with hunger. Thanking Prime Zylfiqar Ali Bhutto (who was originally from hundëzakët), was declared tragedy and saved Gentiles, ndërsaAli Bhutto was their hero. But, with the advent of Deoband in force since 1979 (President Zia Ul Haq) the last shënoifillimin kafir (hundëzakëve). Who are Deoband? A Wahhabi version of Islam, who believe that only atadhe wahabitë should exist, other Islamic sects should disappear. Gjeneral Zija Ul Haq (himself a member of the sect Deobant) went so far as to side tablirrëve (tablirrët, stream deobantëve) islamizoi every corner of Pakistan. As a result of kësajtablirret (Taliban) forcibly entered Qafirstan taking over 70% of the territory and destroy everything indigenous and imposing harsh of Islam. The kidnap of Hundëzake-Kalash women and forced marriages to Muslim converted were and are one of the methods used today. The kidnaped women and forcibly married were not allowed to see their relatives përderisaedhe they do not take Islam as their religion. But is not the women also fsheftësi are sold with the way “that pays more.” transfer not allowed. Qafirirëve Poverty is also another major factor for tablirri-embracing Islam. The government does not give credits ot the kafir, and state police and justice of Pakistan nukkundërvehet never hundëzakëve property when attacked. Tablirret also play a hundëzakëve letërtjetër giving money to usury (which is against principles), and when they could not turn them on or else no way left tëislamohen or lose the property. Water is water and electricity only for Muslims, but the Kalash are deprived of the good ones. ËshtëSiberik Qafistanit winter, the conditions of life are papërshkruarshme. Mosques and ngrohtadhe are coursed with piped water, and Kalash houses of the snow should mërdhijnë shkrirëpër to drink. During the Kalash winter sleep and live together with the few domestic animals that kanë.S ‘no hospitals or Dispensary. Voices from coursed with magnifying read vargjekuranike day and night, and many die because they lack Kalash even elementarshëndetsor care, even recently, during the women’s birth. Thanks tablirrëve indigenous Kalash culture there më.Në almost 80 years it emerged that the wide end of the twentieth century will come to ekalashëve extinction, but is still alive about 2 to 3 thousand of them. Government of Pakistan’s kaformuar “Kalash Foundation for salvation and propagation of kafir culture. But the facts speak otherwise. CHES Valley Visitors must pay well to those people parëato countries. Visitor tickets given to depreciate called “kopshtitzoologjik ticket”. Thanks to this foundation have become artifakteantropologjike Kalash. To be the greatest irony, animal protection associations vajtojnëpër disappearance of any kind, and nobody raised their voice in defense, the tablirrët evazhdojnë recent settlement of European nations It is interesting that our neighbors have the courage to jump pathirrur our wedding. . . Greeks to send teachers for years, Greek schools open and convince the world përprejardhjen hundëzakëve like Greek, Slav-Macedonians and since 1996 dërgojnëlinguistë Slavs Kalash place to find continuity between language and the Macedonian-gjuhëssllavo burrerrishte. But the greatest irony is that in 2008 when Prime Fyromit, Gruevskithirri hundëzakë visiting Prince Ali Khan and Princess Gacanfer Roni Attica, as descendants of Alexander the Great, this just to show continuity with hundëzakët Macedonian Slavs (!) . . . . . . . Albanians our wedding and we put her veil and neglect.

Ata që njohin gjuhën e mistereve të qiellit e të tokës. Këta janë Hundëzakët, banorë të një lugine majë malesh, 2500 mt. mbi nivelin e detit, aty ku piqen Afganistani, Pakistani, Taxhikistani dhe Kina. Ata flasin Sanskritisht, sot e mijra vjet, e kjo gjuhë në fakt nuk është gjë tjetër përveçse gjuha antike pellazgo-iliro-shqiptare.

-këto vajza të vogla, si shumë moshatar të tyre që jetojnë këtyre majave, duken si banoret e fshatrave tona të thella malore, por ata janë thjesht banorë të Hundëzës, dhe trashëgimtarë të padiskutueshëm të Lekës së Madh-
Për Hundëzakët nuk ka mëshirë! Të gjithë i kanë bezdi, për pastërtin dhe bukurin e rracës, për dinjitetin e tyre, sidhe për veçorinë e gjuhës që askush nuk ua kupton. Ajo gjuhë njeh dhe fsheh mistere të mëdha, tokësore e qiellore. Por bota ziliqare, malinje, mendon se ata duhet të zhduken! Por sa gabim e kane !!!

Para disa muajsh, atje, ne ato male u gjend një makineri shume e çuditshme, e fshehur ne nje shpelle, sigurisht nga banoret e zones, nga hundëzakët. Kjo ishte makina fluturuese, ajo që indianët e vjetër e konsideronin si kopja teknologjike e asaj qe realizon vet njeriu i plotesuar, njeriu qe fluturon vetem me fuqine (energjine) dhe teknikat e trupit te tij. Amerikanet, dmth, ushtaret qe pastronin ato male nga talebanet, u futen ne shpelle dhe gjeten kete relike, sidhe nje dokument qe pasqyronte teknologjine dhe formulen e ketij lloj fluturimi, si per makinen si per vete njeriun perfekt. Por ky dokument eshte i shkruar ne nje gjuhe qe askush nuk e njeh, perveç ketyre njerezve te mire e te vecante…!!! ………………………..

 Ne shqiptarët dasmës sonë ia vëmë vellon e harresës!Aty ku piqen Afganistani, Pakistani, Taxhikistani dhe Kina, aty është Hundëza.
Hundëzaështë mbi 2500 m mbi nivelin e detit dhe rrethohet me male 7 mijë metërshe të larta. Po në këtë lartësi mbidetare e krejtësisht malore prodhohen perimet, pemët dhe drithërat e ndryshëm, aty prodhohen prej patateve, fasules, grurit, elbit, shalqirit, rrushit, qershisë, mollës, dardhës, pjeshkës dhe kajsisë. Banorët janë arë-bërës(bujq) të mrekullueshëm dhe e kanë krijuar sistemin e vet të vaditjes e kullimit, kanalet kulluese pra, që quhen KULLSE (shqip kulluese).

 Mali i lartë i mbuluar me akullnaja quhet RAKAPOSHI ( shqip -ra kahposhtë) e furnizon luginën me ujë të pijshëm. Qafirstani shihet si parajsë në tokë në Pakistanin Verilindor, me liqene të bukur, ujëvaremahnitise, pyje të paprekura të gjelbra, borë të përhershme dhe diell të butë. Nuk është vetëm vendi që të magjeps. Por kush janë qafirët? Hundëzakët jetojnë rreth 100- 140 vjet. Banorët që jetojnë në harmoni të plotë dhe kanë shëndet të mirë pa sëmundje të kohës janë të njohur në botë se rrojnë gjatë.
Një djali të lindur nëna i jep gjinj deri në tre vjet, kurse vajzës vetëm dy. Në Hundëzë nuk ka ndarje të çifteve të martuara. E quajnë veten hundëzakë, sepse lugina mes malesh ku jetojnë eka formën e hundës. Gjuha e folur prej tyre është BURRUSHASKI ( shqip-burrërrisht),gjuhë e cila nuk shkruhet. Burrat veshin SHALVARE ( shqip:shal-vare), ndërsa gratë bluzën e tyre e quajnë KAMISHA. Vallet e tyre shoqërohen nga tupanët, fyejt apopipëzat dhe valltarët kërcejnë të kapur dorë për dore në rreth. Në raste festash burratveshin pelerinë leshi të quajtur çuka. Në tetor është festa e verës (pijeve alkoolike). Gratë nuk janë të mbuluara me perçe e as shamija.

-nje hundëzake dhe nje mirditore- (gjejeni dallimin)
Festa më e rëndësishme është ajo e Vitit të Ri Diellor. Ky festim quhet NA UROSH (shqip). Në një ditë të vetme të dhjetorit kryhen të gjitha martesat e vitit. Hundëzakët e tregojnë brez pas brezi historinë e tyre se si kanë mbetur aty që nga shekulli III p. e. s.dhe se e kanë prejardhjen që nga koha e Aleksandrit të Madh. Aristidh Kola, historian arvanitas në librin e tij , , Arvanitasit” shkruan. . . Aleksandri imadh, ilir nga nëna e tij e kishte rritur ushtrinë e tij me ushtarë të zgjedhur ilirë. Por pasvrasjes së Klitit nga ana e Lekës së Madh, atë periudhë e veçojmë se rreth 6 mijë ushtarëilirë u ndanë nga ky i fundit dhe veçuan duke u pozicionuar të veçuar në Braktane deri sau përqendruan në Qafirstanin e sotëm. . . Hundëza ,me qenë se pjesa gjeografike ku ata jetojnë e ka formën e Hundës. Pra, fjalën e kemi për një mori ilirësh ( e sot rreth 50 mijë sish) që kanë mbetur aty që ngakoha e Lekës së Madh, nga koha e pushtimit të Mbretërisë së Persisë të Dariusit. Vendi ihundëzakëve u quajt Qafirstan për shkak se nuk e pranuan islamizimin. (Qafirstan –vendi jobesimtarëve). Hundëzakët jetuan me mijëra vjet si paganë deri në fillim të shekullitXIX, deri sa Emiri Abdur Rrahman Khan i konvertoi qafirët në islam. (1895-1896). Pas pushtimit të Emirit të Kabulit vendi u quajt Nuristan (Vend i Dritës) . Qafirstani ishtepushtuar shpesh edhe para Emirit dhe sigurisht që identiteti i tyre u degradua, ”priftat “ e tyre u vranë, qendrat fetare ishin djegur, të rinjtë ishin marrë me zor për ushtri, kursevajzat për haremet e khanëve. Çka është e rëndësishme që hundëzakët edhe sot e kësaj dite e pinë verën e përzier meujë, si të parët tanë ilirët. Janë popull trupgjatë, me lëkurë të bardhë dhe mollëza të kuqe,shumica e tyre me sy të kaltër, të gjelbër dhe hiri, flokët e verdhë deri në ngjyrëkafe, gjëqë i dallon nga afganët, tagjikët apo pakistanezët. Shumë prej tyre edhe leshkuq. Femra e Qafirstanit, “femra kalashe e Hundëzës me bukurinë e saj e bën që mashkulli, jo vetëm kalash, të humbë edhe fenë e tij.” “Kur një grua kalashe pi ujë i shihet uji duke gjarpëruar teposhtë fytit të saj të gjatë e të bukur”, Këto janë përshkrime të zakonshme që i bëhen bukurisë dhe butësisë së femrës Qafire. Ato besohet të jenë më të bardha se e bardha. ” Nga lëkura e saj shihen edhe venat nëpër trupin e saj të bardhë “. Kurse lartë në male jeton fisi karakteristik i Kalashëve. Kalashët janë animistët e fundit të Azisë Qendrore. Si grup i vogël prej 5 mijë vetash e kanë një histori më ndryshe nga hundëzakët tjerë.

Me kalimin e shekujve Qafirstani u nda në dy zona- ajo e qafirëve të zinj e që sot janë kalashët dhe qafirët e kuq, pasardhësit e tyre sot jetojnë në Nuristan e që iu nënshtruan xhihadit të Emirit të Kabulit. “Qafiret e zinj” jetojnë edhe sot me besimin e tyre Animist, me të cilin besohet se edhe druri ka shpirt. Me mijëra vjet kalashët e kanë ruajtur dhe mbijetuar kulturën e tyre unike,identitetin social dhe gjuhësor, por shekulli i ri i ka përballur me dy përballje të reja tëfundamentalizmit fetar dhe ndryshimeve klimatike. Studimi i Hundëzës dhe hundëzakëve ka rëndësi të madhe për kulturën shqiptare , sepsekanë jetuar me mijëra vjet të veçuar nga rrethi dhe ashtu janë ruajtur tiparet popullore,gjuhësore dhe zakonore ilire-shqiptare. Ku jemi? Mediet pakistaneze filluan së pari të shkrujnë për këtë grup njerëzish gjatë viteve të 70-takur Qafirstani u ballafaqua me uri. Duke i falënderuar kryeministrit Zylfiqar Ali Bhutto( i cili ishte me origjinë nga hundëzakët), u shpall tragjedia dhe paganët shpëtuan, ndërsaAli Bhutto ishte hero i tyre. Por, me ardhjen e deobandëve në fuqi dhe viti 1979 (Presidenti Zia Ul Hak) e shënoifillimin e fundit të qafirëve (hundëzakëve). Kush janë deobandët? Një version Wahabi i islamit, të cilët mëndojnë se vetëm atadhe wahabitë duhet të ekzistojnë, sektet tjera fetare islame duhen të zhduken. GjeneraliZija Ul Hak (edhe vetë pjesëtar i sektit Deobant) shkoi aq larg sa me anën e tablirrëve(tablirrët, rrjedhë e deobantëve) e islamizoi çdo skutë të Pakistanit. Si rrezultat i kësajtablirret (talebanët) me forcë u futën në Qafirstan duke marrë mbi 70% të territorit dheduke shkatërruar çdo gjë autoktone hundëzake dhe duke iu imponuar Islamin në mënyratmë të vrazhda. Rrëmbimimi i femrave hundëzake –kalashe dhe martesat me dhunë për t’i konvertuarnë islam ishin dhe janë një prej metodave të përdorura edhe sot e kësaj dite. Femrave tërrëmbyera dhe të martuara me dhunë nuk iu lejohej të shihnin të afërmit e tyre përderisaedhe ata nuk e merrnin islamin si fe të tyre. Por, nuk është as fsheftësi kur femrat edhe janë shitur me mënyrën “se kush paguan më shumë”. Hundëzakëve nuk iu lejohet bartja earmëve. Varfëria e qafirirëve është po ashtu faktor tjetër i madh për përqafimin e tablirri-Islamit. Qeveria nuk jep kredite pë qafirët, kurse policia dhe drejtësia shtetërore e Pakistanit nukkundërvehet kurrë kur sulmohet prona e hundëzakëve. Tablirret luajnë edhe me një letërtjetër duke iu dhënë hundëzakëve para me fajde (që është kundër parimeve), dhe kur ata nuk mund t’i kthejnë më ato s’u mbetet gjë tjetër ose tëislamohen ose të humbasin pronën. Uji i ujësjellësit dhe rryma elektrike është vetëmpër myslimanët, kurse kalashët janë të privuar nga ato të mira. Dimri i Qafistanit ështëSiberik, e kushtet e jetës janë të papërshkruarshme. Xhamitë dhe mejtepet janë të ngrohtadhe me ujë nga ujësjellësi, kurse shtëpitë e kalashëve të mërdhijnë e bora duhet shkrirëpër t’u pirë. Gjatë dimrit kalashët flenë dhe jetojnë së bashku me shtazët e pakta shtëpiake që i kanë.S’ka spitale e as dispanzeri. Zërat me zmadhuese nga mejtepet ditë e natë lexojnë vargjekuranike, kurse shumë kalashë vdesin sepse iu mungon kujdesi edhe më elementarshëndetsor, bile së fundi edhe gjatë lindjës së grave. Duke iu falënderuar tablirrëve kultura autoktone kalashe thuaja se nuk ekziston më.Në vitët e 80-ta flitej se gjerë në fund të shekullit XX do të vijë deri te shuarja ekalashëve, por ja që janë ende gjallë nja 2 deri 3 mijë sish. Qeveria e Pakistanit e kaformuar “Fondacionin Kalash për shpëtimin dhe propagimin e kulturës Qafire. Por,faktet flasin ndryshe. Vizitorët e Luginës së kalshëve duhet të paguajnë mirë për t’i parëato vende e ata njerëz. Bileta që i jepet vizitorit quhet me nënçmim “biletë e kopshtitzoologjik”. Duke iu falënderuar këtij fondacioni kalashet janë shndërruar në artifakteantropologjike. Për të qenë ironia më e madhe, shoqatat për mbrojtjen e kafshëve vajtojnëpër zhdukjen e ndonjë lloji, kurse askush nuk e ngrit zërin në mbrojtje të tyre, e tablirrët evazhdojnë shlyerjen e paganëve të fundit evropianë Është interesant që fqinjët tanë kanë guxim që të pathirrur të kërcejnë në dasmën tonë. . .Grekët me vite të tëra dërgojnë mësues, hapin shkolla greke dhe e bindin botën përprejardhjen e hundëzakëve si grekë, kurse sllavo-maqedonasit që nga viti 1996 dërgojnëlinguistë sllavë në vendin e kalashëve për të gjetur vazhdimësi gjuhësore në mes gjuhëssllavo-maqedone dhe asaj burrerrishte. Kurse ironia edhe më e madhe është ajo e vitit 2008 kur kryeministri i Fyromit, Gruevskithirri në vizitë princin hundëzakë Gacanfer Ali Khanin dhe princeshën Roni Atika,si pasardhës të Lekës së Madh e kjo vetëm për të treguar vazhdueshmërinë sllavo –maqedonase me hundëzakët(!). . . . . . . kurse ne shqiptarët dasmës sonë ia vëmë vellon eharresës dhe të mospërfilljes.
Ju falenderoj per vemendjen dhe interesin qe tregoni ndaj albanologjise. Ju repspektoj per qendrimet tuaja dinjitoze dhe kuptimplote. Pa ju bezdisur, do t`ju ftoja qe nese desheroni te kontribuoni ne realizimin e ketij misioni, pra vajtjen ne kete vend, midis Pakistanit dhe Afganiztanit, dhe realizimin e nje dokumentari te plote ne lidhje me keto fise iliro-shqiptare antike qe mbajne gjuhen tone dhe zakonet tona

Monday, April 13, 2015

The land of long life people

What Is the Hunza Diet?

Fitti  is made from flour and water which is eat with tea specially in breakfast

There are many different diets available for people who wish to lose weight, live healthier lifestyles, or cure certain ailments. The Hunza diet is a low-fat option that has grown in popularity. The meal plan is based on the diet of the Hunza people of the Middle Eastern Kashmir Valley.

The Hunza people are known for their unusual longevity. Most members of the group live up to 120 to 140 years of age. When death comes, it is typically attributed to old age rather than the diseases that claim so many lives in the Western world. It is widely believed that this extreme longevity is due to the Hunza diet.

Unprocessed whole foods make up the backbone of the Hunza diet. Forty percent of total calories consumed come from whole grain foods, such as wheat, millet flour, buckwheat, or ground barley. Fresh vegetables make up an additional 30 percent of the diet. Mulberries, apricots, grapes, and other fresh fruits account for 15 percent of total calories in the diet.

Most of the rest of the diet includes beans and nuts or seeds. Of all of these foods eaten, most are consumed raw. Processing, if any, typically involves drying fruits in the sun. Milk and dairy products like yogurt are also eaten regularly, and provide protein as well as intestinal flora.

The Hunza diet typically includes a only small amount of meat. Traditionally, meat was reserved for celebrations or special occasions, though this could change when meat was readily available. This translates to a very low concentration of saturated fat by the Hunza people, preventing diseases such as gout, osteoporosis, kidney disease, cancer, rheumatoid arthritis, diabetes, kidney stones, colon diseases, and heart disease. Most of these conditions are considered the cause of death for many people in the West.

Results from the Hunza diet include a healthy digestive tract due to the high amount of fiber from the whole grain diet. Most of the Hunza people are said to possess a keen enthusiasm for life, as well as boundless energy. The diet is also credited with producing a calm serenity that counteracts the common stress involved with Western life. Long-lasting youth is another reported benefit of the Hunza diet.

Living as high as the peaks of the Himalayan Mountains, the Hunza are essentially cut off from the rest of the world. Their small population of 30,000 people are considered one of the happiest cultural groups in the world. Even at age 100, Hunza people do not consider themselves old. Some Hunza men produce children at this age.

Tuesday, January 6, 2015

VIEWS on upcoming elections in GB and “THE VOTE”

VIEWS on upcoming elections in GB and “THE VOTE”
From the posts on social media, I can see that a number of aspirants want to represent Hunza in the coming elections through a political party platform. For the previous elections I had promised my vote to that aspirant who gives satisfactory answers to each of following questions:
Do you know the views of USA, UN, EU, India, China, Russia and GOP on the status of Gilgit – Baltistan? What are your views and how do you think you will go about implementing your views?
What is your knowledge on the current statutory and customary laws on Natural resources? What does the UN Universal Declaration on this topic contemplate? Are you aware of any local attempts and how will you go about ensuring the economic interests of present and coming generations?
What are the burning issues confronting Hunza today? Do you have a statistical analysis and how do you propose tackling them?
What is your vision for the Hunza society for the next 5 years, 10 yrs., 20 yrs. and 50 years? What collective targets would you set and with what priority?
What is your commitment on the improvements of KKH and proposed energy corridor/railway line? What are the reasons for the slowdown? What would you do to overcome the slowdown that you see?"

Instead of a generalized WISHLIST on what your party will deliver AFTER the elections. My suggestion to the aspirants are:
Give specific quantified GOALS and a ROAD-MAP in writing on this and other media on creating Livelihood opportunities through doable steps towards ECONOMICAL TRANSFORMATION and the programs/projects in ENERGY, EDUCATION/SKILLS, HEALTH and other social issues, with how you have started.
Above all why wait till the elections; embark on these programs/projects from TODAY. AKDN has already provided an effective setup and also written guide-lines to channelize your efforts.
I am glad to see that the preconditions for my “QAIMATI VOTE” have generated such a healthy discussion on the social media. I had posed the same questions to each of the aspirants in previous election also but for partial answers from the son of one of the aspirants none had responded and I did not cast my vote.

Yes, “ETHNICITY, CLAN and SECTARIAN-BIAS” are strong realities on ground, but the biggest reality has yet to enter this discussion – the reality of GREED/MONEY which had almost WON the last elections but for the sponsored “MANIPULATION” inherent in the “YAR ZIRATMIRACLE”.

I have a dream for Hunza as the first step, that of a “DEMOCRATIC SOCIETY CAPABLE OF BEING AN EXAMPLE TO THE REST OF THE COUNTRY OF WHAT AN ISLAMIC SOCIETY IN 21ST CENTURY SHOULD BE”. This cannot happen without motivated and informed indigenous leadership. In order to comprehend my view of how this type of leadership can be identified; take out some time and read the contents on following links;

This process should lead us to vote in a leader who gets more than 50% votes from well informed voters. That means the winning representative must pole at least 14,000 votes – figure based on the number of registered voters for the previous election, I do not have the updated figures of registered voters for the coming election. But please do not go to fictitious voters referred to in the term “MIRACLE”.

Friday, January 2, 2015

Journey to roof of the world

Although I am not fond of traveling to northern areas but this time I planned for the vacation to see how much Pakistan is blessed with the beauty of nature so I decided to visit the most beautiful place called Hunza Valley and Khunjerab Pass. With a group of 80 people from each age bracket we traveled breaking all the barriers of the false assumptions about the security issues and infrastructure issues and reached Khunjerab Pass (China Border).

We started our journey from Lahore. With the non-stop travelling we first reached Naran , crossing  Abbottabad and Balakot, stayed there for a while to gear up for next long journey. With the dirt road up we reached Babusar top which is a lonely, wind-swept mountaintop with no settlements in sight. It was so cold there that our hands were freezing. Chilas comes right after it.

Chilas which is the capital of Diamer District and is a small town located on the left bank of the Indus River. The Karakoram Highway (KKH) passes right through it and there is a PTDC motel for travelers going onwards to Gilgit and Skardu. For me, it was a creepy place where women were nowhere to be seen and its weather was too hot to bear. There were a few scattered villages with little children in rags playing on the roadside. It took more than two hours to cross it and then Gilgit comes. From Gilgit approximately there is five hours drive for Hunza.

Hunza is the northernmost part of a region known as the Northern Areas of Pakistan. It is a real life green paradise on earth. Aliabad is the main town while Karimabad is a popular tourist destination because of the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains like Ultar Sar, Rakaposhi, Bojahagur Duanasir II, Ghenta Peak, Hunza Peak, Passu Peak, Diran Peak and Bublimotin (Ladyfinger Peak), all 6,000 metres (19,685 ft) or higher. This place is like the story book where you find a lot of beautiful views green fields and apricot tress which looks like paradise. The famous Karakoram Highway crosses Hunza, connecting Pakistan to China via the Khunjerab Pass.

At night after two days travelling, finally we arrived at our hotel which was ‘Eagle Nest’. It is located on the apex of Hunza Valley and is just twenty minutes away from Karimabad town. This hotel is one of the famous places of Hunza where foreigners and visitors come and stay for a long time. Guests can easily reach hotel through carpeted road that is about six kilometer from Karimabad. We stayed here for three days and two nights.

In Hunza Valley, friendly people greet you everywhere. The women do not wear veils. There are many schools, also some especially for girls. One of the main activities of the locals is the cultivation of apricots. The local languages spoken include Burushaski, Wakhi and Shina, although most people understand and speak English and Urdu aswell. The literacy rate of the Hunza valley is believed to be more than 95%. Here people live with compassion and harmony. One of the most notable thing of the valley is that these people do not allow any outsider to buy any kind of property because they think it can affect their peace. People from Korea , China, Russia and other countries comes here and stay for months just because they trust these people and they feel good and fresh after spending their vacations. People are trustworthy and honest. You cannot see any kind of wastage on the roads too. Most of the people are highly qualified and if someone could not study due to some reason then there are some technical schools for those kids so that they could have some skills to live an independent life.

The visitors are overwhelmed by the rugged charm, the fragrant breeze singing through graceful poplar trees and the velvet-like green carpet of wheet fields, set against the background of snow-covered mountains.

After a long journey, when we woke up in the morning, a surprise was waiting for us, the beautiful view of the mountains from our room balcony. This view really surprised us all.   From the hotel we could view 11 top peaks and among them most popular were Rakaposhi, Ultar Peak, Golden Peak, Diran Peak and Lady Finger. After breakfast our tourist guides planned hiking for us. We climb the mountain which was near to our hotel and it was great fun. In the night the hotel management arranged a musical night for all their tourist staying there so that people get to know about the culture and music of Hunza.

Musical night was superbly arranged in which the famous musician of that area performed and made all the audience spell bound with their talent, music and dance. One of the musician was a polio patient but was blessed with talent of playing flute. He played it excellently. It was most amazing time we had there.  Biker Moin Khan also joined us there and shared some of his views about the town. His fellow friends also gave their contribution in music and sung a wonderful song.

On the next day, we went to Khunjerab Pass (China Broader). It took almost one hour from our hotel to Attabad lake from where we had to sit in boats and cross the lake where jeeps were waiting to take us to the broader.

The Attabad Lake was formed following a massive landslide in 2010, which buried 20 people beneath it and blocked the flow of River Hunza, creating a natural dam. The water has displaced thousands of people and inundated over 19 kilometers of the Karakoram Highway. It has clean blue water. Boats ferry people, their belongings and even cars from one side to the other, all through the day. Even the trucks coming from China, carrying material and equipment for the Karakoram Highway construction have to cross the lake on a barge. It takes almost 45 minutes to cross the lake.  Further there was four hours drive to reach the broader. There is a city called ‘Sust’ which comes in the middle of Karakoram Highway. This town has an important place on the highway for all passengers and cargo transport because all traffic crossing the Pakistan-China border passes through this town. On our way we also found a melting glacier and flow of the water was fast. After a long dive we reached China Broader and it was an awesome feeling to be there. Weather was very normal there. We stayed there for an hour, met the soldiers who were serving there and had a good conversation with them. When we were on the way back to the lake, the melting glacier became hinder for us as in night the flow of the water was too much fast that we could not cross that small path on our vans. After waiting almost two hours near the glacier, a big truck came to take us to the lake. The group of 80 people was shifted in the truck. The road was bumpy and it was a difficult way to cross it. By the time reached the lake at late night. After reaching near lake first we have to take the permission from DCO of that area as it was not allowed to travel in lake after evening. After the permission we again seated in the boats and crossed the lake where our buses were waiting for us. It was a wonderful experience to cross that beautiful lake in the mid night with the light of moon only. Through it seems horrible at the same time but we all made that moment very memorable with our jokes.  That day became the most adventurous day of our trip.

Next day, the time came to say bye bye to people of Eagle Nest hotel who were very friendly and generous. We did some shopping from the shops inside the hotel. These shops have handmade jewllery, clothes and caps from which their culture reflects. The entire staff of the hotel and the owner himself was very kind and benevolent. With their blessing we say them good bye.

Coming down from the hotel, we stayed at Karimabad for some hours to explore their bazaar and also to see the Baltit castle.  The fairy-tale like castle of Baltit, was built about 600 years ago. It is situated on the top of a hill from where it overlooks the whole valley. Stilted on massive legs, its wooden bay windows look out over the valley. Originally, it was used the resistance of the Mirs (the title of the former rulers) of Hunza. Baltit Fort is three-storey building with 53 rooms. The main gate opens into a dark hall or corridor on the ground floor. The fort has been well kept. It maintains a museum, library and a nice restaurant. The credit goes to the Agha Khan Trust for Culture. There are guest rooms, kitchens, storerooms, prisons and living rooms attached to this corridor. A wooden staircase goes up through a square opening in the floor above. Preservation at its best, this Fort serves as a perfect example of culture restored and preserved for the future generations of the mountain people.

After visiting bazaar and fort we moved to the way back to Lahore. With incredible peeks, beauty of hunza, this trip not only gave all of us a respite from our daily dull routines; also it gave us the chance to explore new things. The most memorized time is the visit to the china broader. Despite of bumpy rides, difficult roads, the trip did not lose its charm and fun. Our tourist guide ‘The Traveller’, thanks to them for arranging such amazing and pleasant trip for all of us. Your smiling faces and efforts gave us courage and motivate us to all come all the difficulties.